Re-Binding

It is a nuisance to have to do something over when your work ended too imperfectly.  I mentioned before that a judge commented on my "Fenestra Rosa" that there was a problem with the binding.  She didn't elaborate so I could only guess at the specifics of my offense.  I want to show the quilt some more and decided that it would be best to remove the binding and do it over again.  Grrrrr!  Back to bulldog mode.

The first time, I blocked the quilt and bound it with a method that machine stitches mitered corners.  You cut the binding lengths to match the quilt measurements plus an extra couple of inches.  Once the sides are sewn up to, but not including the seam allowance, you stitch the ends of two bindings together in a miter, press and turn.  The corner is beautifully formed...theoretically.  It looks really nice when done right, but it takes practice to get it right.  Ricky Tims does his quilts this way, but I have not achieved his level of expertise.  My problem might have been a tiny nipple at the point of the turned corner.

TIP:  With this method, if you get a nipple on your corner you may have to do the whole side over because you have trimmed the inner seam just like you would a collar point so there's not much left to work with.

After removing the errant binding I soaked the quilt and re-blocked it.  I first took 3 measurements horizontally and 3 measurements vertically, i.e. 1-2" from the edge of each side, top and bottom and one across the middle of each dimension.  They may not match perfectly, but you can work with some minor discrepancy.  If you have a major discrepancy you may have to trim.   Then I averaged the numbers to get the final dimensions of my quilt.  Next I hauled out my sheet of 1" styrofoam from the local big box hardware store and laid out blue painter's tape in a rectangle so the inner edges were the dimensions of my quilt.  Be sure to measure the diagonals as well.  They must be equal to each other.  A non-square corner can throw the whole thing off.

My Blocking Board
(I have done several quilts so there are extra blue tape lines to ignore.)

After the quilt has soaked throughly ring out as much water as possible, rolling it in a towel to sop it up, or spin it in the washing machine.  Now you are ready to pin with long glass-top pins (at least that is what I use).  I don't like t-pins as they are not as sharp.  Start pinning in the seam allowance at the center of each side and the corners, and then fill in, stretching where necessary, or patting and pinning down excess if needed.  Pins should end up about 1 inch apart all the way around the quilt.  When carefully measured and pinned the quilt will dry into perfect measurements and will stay that way until soaked again.

"Fenestra Rosa" pinned into submission.

This is where I think I went wrong.  The second time around I noticed that the top of the quilt is slightly wider or stretchier than the bottom, which has more quilting because of the lattice.  If my blocking was shoddy when I used pre-measured binding I may have stretched or eased the binding to get it to fit.  Who knows?  I don't remember.  I did not have the option of trimming because I was afraid that would mess up the carefully calculated junction between the background and the arch (scroll down to last week's post to see the quilt).

TIP:  It really comes down to accurate blocking.  If the quilt is off in any dimension it will not hang straight and the judges will catch it every time.  If the quilt is for home use and will only hang on the clothesline this need not be an issue.

This time I bound the quilt with Sharon Schamber's method and it went very smoothly.  We'll see what I get back from future shows.

Happy Stitching until next week.

Blocking the Quilt

The judge's comment on Hallelujah Rhapsody that really threw me was that the quilt was not hanging straight.  I knew that this meant the sides were not equal, but I measured and they were equal...pretty much!  The diagonal measurements were close.  It was time to wake up and smell the flowers and learn how to block my quilts.  I wasn't going to worry anymore about this quilt, but I got busy and researched the process of blocking.  There is a lot of information out there and each tutorial has a different twist.  Without rewriting it all I will tell you how I block my quilts.

1.  I always pre-wash my fabrics so the colors won't run when exposed to water.  What is the point of blocking if your colors bleed all over the place?

2.  Do not bind your quilt yet.  Measure the unbound quilt (see the diagram below).  Measure across at the top, center and bottom (red).  Measure vertically the left side, center and right side (purple).  Be sure to include the amount you need for binding.  For a square quilt add up the measurements and average (divide by 6 in this case).  If your quilt is rectangular you will average the three measurements of the length (divide the total by 3) and the same with the three measurements of the width.   Average the two diagonals (blue) in the same manner (divide by 2).  Hopefully the measurements will be perfect, or at least very close.  A difference of 1/4 inch will work out, 1/2 inch makes me really nervous, 1 inch would destroy my day.

TIP:  Take your top, bottom and side measurements about 1-2 inches in from the edge.  There is almost always a bit extra out there by the time you finish quilting.  It will ease nicely into the binding, but will give an inaccurate measurement for blocking.

3.  Use your average measurements to trim your quilt, adding at least the width of your binding.  Be sure to cut your corners square.  A 12" square ruler is a great tool for squaring the corners.

TIP:  If you allow more than the amount of the binding, plan another trim session after the blocking is complete.

4.  When the quilt is finished, but not yet bound soak it in the bathtub for a couple of hours then gently squeeze out as much water as possible; do not twist.  You can also use the washing machine but do not let it agitate.  Leave the lid up so it will soak without getting beat up.  Then spin the water out gently.  The washing machine is certainly easier, but I can't use mine in the winter so I have used both methods with good results.

5.  Now comes the fun.  You need a flat surface that you can poke pins into and that will allow you to stretch the soggy quilt as needed.  You can place a clean sheet or blanket on the floor and pin the quilt to your carpet.  I prefer a big piece of styrofoam.  I bought two 4x8 ft. pieces with silver paper on the outside, and taped them together with packing tape.  This monster fits nicely on my bed or a large table, and I don't have to crawl around on the floor picking up pins in my knees.  It is light weight to move around and stores easily on its side - even with a quilt pinned to it, as occurs when I want to go to bed.  Next I use painter's 1" masking tape to mark where the edges of my quilt need to be pinned, measuring carefully as I stick it down.  Mark the center of all sides with a permanent marking pen on the tape.  Using the tape eliminates constant measuring and repinning, which can get exhausting.

TIP:  Caution!! Cats and dogs love the carpet method.  Your lovely quilt is the perfect place to curl up for a nap.

6.  Now you are ready to pin.  The directions I have read advise using T-pins, but the ones I have are too big and too difficult to stick through the wet fabric.  I bought some long, sewing pins and they work much better.  Place the pins in the edge of the quilt fabric where pinholes will be covered by binding.  Pin the four corners first.  Then pin the centers of all four sides, pulling the quilt to the edge of your carefully measured masking tape.  Place pins about 1 inch apart all the way around your quilt, easing if necessary.

TIP:  Don't be afraid to ask for help.  Sometimes you need an extra set of strong fingers to encourage the fabric to knuckle under to the averaged measurements and meet up with the masking tape.

TIP:  What if you have the edges all pinned, but there are pouffies in the middle where there seems to be too much quilt?  Pat the excess down gently, but don't squash your beautiful quilting.  Go back frequently and pat your damp quilt lovingly until it dries nice and flat.

There is a great deal of satisfaction in seeing a completed quilt pinned into submission all clean, flat and lovely.  Quilting imperfections seem to have disappeared into the batting and you almost wonder if you really made it yourself.  When it is dry, double check the measurements, and you are ready to bind it.  It will maintain its shape as long as it is kept dry.

Blue Block Border

The next border is rather plain, very easy and didn't measure out to fit the preceding steps.  This can be an ongoing problem with a self designed pattern.  Nobody has made it before and you never know what monkey wrenches are going to inject themselves.  I have many years of sewing experience, and try to visualize the technical aspects of my design and properly incorporate them into the pattern.  Doesn't always work.  Here is the next border:

The light blue, two inch squares are fussy cut from blue floral fabrics to emphasize a flower or a grouping of flowers.  They are pretty much a medium to light value.  I surrounded them with 1/2 inch dark blue sashing.  Piece of cake (or cloth)!  The problem was that I either had to fill in the ends or change the size of my blocks in order for the border to fit the previous border.  I didn't want to change the size of the 2" blocks so I pulled out some pieces of Paula Nadelstern fabric that was designed to go with the fabric I used in the center Mariner's Compass and fussy cut the pieces to mirror at the mitered corner.  It does the job although I have never been crazy about those corners, but I couldn't come up with another solution that I liked better.  Sometimes I sit and stew over a problem like this and other times I just go with it as I did here.

Lifetime so far in Illustrator

Lifetime so far in fabric.

TIP:  Do you know what "fussy cutting" means?  It is when you carefully cut out a particular element or grouping from a fabric.

I use translucent template material available at any quilt store and cut it the size of the finished piece plus 1/4 inch seam allowance all around.

Mark the seam allowance on all sides of the template and mark any distinctive lines that will guide you to place the template exactly the same on the next piece you cut. Since you can see through the template you may be able to see where you want it without marking.   Depends on how much precision you need.

Place the template on the fabric and mark around it with a fine, black marker (it won't show on the finished quilt because it is on the outer edge of the seam allowance) or if the fabric is dark use a white gel pen or fabric marker.  I often use 1/4" double sided masking tape to fasten the template temporarily to the fabric.  It is available at Joann's and probably other quilt or craft stores.

Cut with small, sharp scissors on the marked line.  This leaves your fabric with gaping holes throughout!  If this bothers you, deal with it.

TIP:  If you hit a problem in your quilt it may help to put it away and work on something else for awhile.  You could also skim through your books, check the library, go to a quilt show or fondle fabric to come up with a new idea.  I find that time usually solves the problem, often while I am sleeping.