One important issue is thread weight. Threads are labelled as #30, #50, #100, aka 30 wt, 50 wt, 100 wt, etc. The confusing thing is that #30 is relatively thick and heavy and a lower number is even heavier. A nice piecing weight is #50. The finest thread in my list is #100 and is often silk, but Superior has just come out with a #100 polyester thread (MicroQuilter) that sounds really nice and is cheaper than silk. The numbering makes sense when you realize how the system works:
- #30 means that on a weight scale 30 yards = 1 specific weight unit.
- #50 means that on a weight scale 50 yards = 1 specific weight unit.
- #100 means that on a weight scale 100 yards = 1 specific weight unit.
Needles, on the other hand, are bigger if the number is higher. The size of the thread determines the size of needle that you should use. You would use a larger needle for #30 thread than you would use for #100 thread.
TIP: Changing needles and threads is inherent in fine quilting. Get used to it!!
OK. My choices from start to finish:
Piecing. My first choice would be Aurifil cotton Mako. It is 100% cotton, #50 aka 50 wt and is fine/thin for a cotton thread. It is not linty. However, I took a class from Harriet Hargrave many years ago and she recommended Presencia 50 wt and it is an excellent thread too. I bought a huge cone of it, so I use it for all my piecing, but will change when it is gone - if it ever gets used up. No complaints. I just like the Aurifil better as it seems thinner. I use a medium gray for all my piecing.
Ditching. I do most of my SID with Superior Mono-poly. It is clear and fine and you don't have to worry about color. My machine has no problem with it. My only complaint is that it is shiny. I see it as I work, but when the quilt is done it is really invisible. Superior also has a smoky version for use on dark fabrics, but it is also shiny. Both of these threads blend with the colors of your fabric. In the bobbin I use Superior's Bottom Line, which is a 60 wt thread. It is very slightly elastic, which allows it to pull the top thread into the batting when it relaxes after sewing.
TIP: Check your tension before you start to make sure that you don't have pin points of thread poking out on one side or the other. The top and bottom threads should meet and loop within the batting.
Quilting the quilt. The thread for the rest of the quilt is variable and depends on what I am doing. I love Isacord when I want the quilting to stand out. It is 40 wt polyester with a beautiful sheen and I am using it to outline a lot of feathers. Thread buildup really shows so you have to plan in order to avoid too much backtracking with it. I also am using 100 wt Kimono silk from Superior. It is dreamy, thin and strong. I use it where I want texture more than obvious color or where I want to smash down the background to accentuate a quilting design. The very fine thread buries itself in the quilt leaving texture more obvious than thread. I used a contrasting color silk for the dark border feathers so they would show a little bit, but not stand out. I also find it hard to see if I work dark on dark! I use Bottom Line in the bobbin for both Isacord and silk.
|Isacord for feathers. Kimono silk for grid and border designs.|
Turquoise point not quilted yet.
On this quilt I am using the same bobbin color for the whole quilt. I will talk about quilt backs next week. They can be a lot of fun.
Sew a happy seam this week. I wish you fine stitching with beautiful threads.
how the back looks